Sunday, November 6, 2011

Wiring Up Fuel Gauge Driver Plus

Hi all, I know its been 2 months since my last blog. I guess apathy is setting in. Last week was Halloween and the 3rd anniversary of starting my restoration/conversion.

I have finally installed the Fuel Gauge Driver Plus from EVWorks in Australia. The Fuel Gauge Driver Plus or FGDP is a State of Charge device. SOC is the EV equivalent of a fuel gauge. What's really nice about this one is that it can actually drive the existing fuel gauge. It also has a couple of other nice features: 1) it can drive the tachometer as an ammeter and 2) it has a low State of Charge warning indicator.

Here's a picture of the Fuel Gauge Driver Plus from the EVWorks web site:


Here's a drawing of the device showing the inputs and outputs:




Here's the wiring diagram that I put together for the FGDP. The 914 fuel gauge has a low fuel warning light that I decided to use as the indicator for the low SOC warning indicator. The problem is that the FGDP only puts out a +5V 5mA output signal only capable of driving an LED. To drive the existing 12V lamp in the fuel gauge, I used the +5V 5mA output to drive a 2N2222 transistor and a 2.2KOhm resistor to switch on the lamp. I decided not to use the low SOC warning ind as a means to switch to a "limp-home" mode as I will be the only driver of this EV. I can also switch from the ammeter from the FGDP to a real tachometer of the motor speeed from a RechargeCar WarP Speed Sensor on the WarP 9 motor.




Here's the FDGP, low SOC warning ind circuit, and 12V power momentary switch in a plastic enclosure. The enclosure is located in the front trunk and the device is on the most positive leg of the traction pack cable just before it connects to the emergency breaker and positive contactor.




Here's a closeup of the fuel gauge. You can clearly see the low fuel light is lit up as the orange ind.


And another closeup of of both fuel gauge and tachometer:

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Targa Top Vinyl and Front Trunk relay Wiring

September 6, 2011 - It has been a busy week and I wanted to make sure I blogged about all of it. It took me a while to obtain most of the polished aluminum trim pieces for the targa sail but I finally got the last piece from AutoAtlanta last week.

I tried to obtain some better rear sail trim pieces but haven't been successful. These are the curved pieces that are very expensive at $200 or better a piece so I've ve decided to make do with the ones that I have. Apparently the previous owners of the two pair that I do have didn't know about the inner clip with a bolt that goes thru the wheel well and a nut that screws on from underneath. They used screws thru the aluminum into the frame. Ouch!

I also ordered the sail vinyl from 914 Appearance and Performance. They have the sail vinyl for $25. I received the vinyl a couple of weeks ago and the pieces fit perfectly.

Here's a very detailed writeup of how to install the vinyl sail on 914world.com forum.

I started with the sail top and used 3M spray glue and sprayed criss-cross both top and vinyl. My neighbor Gene helped me to hold the long vinyl piece while I slowly pressed it onto the sail top. It went on fairly easily.

I then went on to one of the sails. Sprayed it and the vinyl with glue and then slowly pressed on the vinyl. Like i said before, the cut vinyl fit perfectly. I only had to cut slits to get it to lay down flat in the curve.

Here's a shot of the right side sail. There are actually four trims pieces that outline the sail. The one on the left is the expensive curved piece. The one on the top is a short piece. The one on the right also holds the vertical targa to window seal. And finally the one on the bottom is a thin piece that can also be expensive.


Here's a shot of the sail top. The trim piece on the left runs the entire length of the sail or roll bar. Its held in place by three very unusual loking clips that I also had to purchase from AutoAtlantaut was very necessary.




Here's the left side sail. You can actually make out the texture of the vinyl in this shot. If you look closely enough, you can see the rust bubbling in the lower left part of the sail. It the same story on the right side sail too. Apparently, the previous owner did not kill the rust on the inside of the sails priot to painting them. In an effort to get the car on the road as soon as possible I have decided not to remediate this rust issue at this time.


Here's a better shot showing both left side sail and sail top. If the sails didn't have the rust, I wouldn't have covered them in vinyl.


Here's a nice shot of newly installed windshield and covered sail.


And a final shot of the rear showing how the curved trim pieces cover up the ends of the long rear trim piece.


Now onto the front trunk relay board wiring. The relay board consists of five relays, terminal block, and six fuse gang block. The relays consist of: 1) Off-board charger interlock, 2) On-board charger interlock, 3) Key Switch relay, 4) Windshield washer pump relay, and 5) Electric Antenna motor relay. The components were mounted onto a clear lucite panel that mounts onto the front battery box.




Here's a shot of the nearly completely wired:


Monday, September 5, 2011

Windshield Install

September 5, 2011 - It's been a month since my last blog entry but not for lack of activity. Wednesday of last week, I had Frank Fountas of C Thru Glass and Security Films, a classic/custom car installation specialist referred by the Glass Doctor, come and install the teener's windshield and rear window.

I was quite anxious about the install due to great difficulty I incurred in acquiring the windshield. This was the fourth windshield that I had shipped. The first three were broken in transit. But Frank reassured me that the install would be routine given a fairly straight frame. It turned out the frame was about perfect.

Once Frank and his assistant arrived and introductions made, it was stricly business. They both went to work on the car. They started out by taping off the windshield frame:


Here's a shot of the rear window frame prior to installation.


Here's Frank cleaning up the windshield:


The windshield frame totally taped off:


Here they are applying the black urethane prep to the frame:


Continuing to apply the black urethane prep:


Installing the foam rubber seal:


Continuing to install the foam rubber seal:


More foam rubbber seal:


Close up of left top corner:


Closeup of left bottom corner; you can see the lower windshield to dash seal sitting on top of the foam rubber windshield seal:


Test fitting the windshield:


Checking for a good seating all the way around:


Plugging the holes from the plastic blocks that secured the original chrome trim in place:


Continuing to the plug the chrome trim plastic block holes:


Fitting the new windshield chrome replacemen​t rubber seal:


Continuing to fit the new windshield chrome replacemen​t rubber seal:


Cutting off the new windshield chrome replacemen​t rubber seal excess:


Perfect fitment of the new windshield chrome replacemen​t rubber seal:


Adding a fine bead of urethane to the rubber seal:


More fine beads of urethane to rubber seal:


Adding urethane to the windshield frame. Frank told me that urethane has an adhesive strength of 400 lbs/sq in. This is how the windshield frame of new cars is the part of the structural intregrity of the frame.


Finally mounting the windshield:


In she goes:


Light tapping to ensure a good seating:


More pressure to squeeze the urethane into places it ought to go:


Now a final inspection to ensure a tight seal:


Checking the inside for excess urethane. Looking pretty good.


Prepping the rear window frame:


Installing the rear window:


Pressing the window into the urethane for a good seal:


Cleanup work:


The front windshield looks awesome:


Rear window looks great too:


Closeup of rear window showing the engine deck lid seal. This was installed prior to the window install.


Isn't she awesome?


I am very glad I had a pro install the windshield and rear window. Not only did they come to me but their prices were more than reasonable, $95 for the first hour and $55 for every hour after that. The total install time was less than one and a half hours and under $120. Wow!!! Here's Frank's business card.